Thursday, May 2, 2013

Review: Trader Joe's Korean Seaweed Salad

I  have to give Trader Joe's credit. The California-based grocery chain noticed the increasing chic of 한식 hanshik (Korean cuisine) in the U.S. and went headlong into offering private-label prepared meals — 갈비 kalbi (marinaded beef ribs), 불고기 bulgogi (sauteed beef), 비빔밥 bibimbap (vegetables mixed with rice) and 김치복음밥 kimchi bogeumbap (kimchi fried rice).

The chain also sells 30-sheet packets of 김 gim/kim (sheets of roasted, dried seaweed), which has become a popular children's snack in the States, especially in California. The grocer even got a bit experimental by offering dried kimchi.


However, I believe that Trader Joe’s Authentically Korean Seaweed Salad with Spicy Dressing is probably the chain's boldest step into Korean cuisine.

Upon opening the package, you will find five different kinds of dried seaweed. After rehydrating for at least 10 minutes, the marine mix is bathed in the enclosed sauce, which is based on 고추장 gochujang (spicy red pepper paste). There is a lot of dressing in the package, so you don't have to use the entire package. Just use enough for your own taste.

I got some childish glee out of the fact that the white agar-agar "sticks" turned a bright orange after I smothered them in the spicy Korean sauce packet.


If you end up enjoying the seaweed but not the salad dressing, consider these seaweed salad dressing options.

I enjoyed the different colors and textures of the various seaweeds in the bowl. I also enjoyed the spicy kick of the dressing. But I have to admit that this is not the kind of Korean seaweed salad most are accustomed to eating at Korean restaurants. Some might doubt that product is Korean, but the package says, "Made in Korea."

The salad mix is vegan, which means no shrimp paste (or other fish based ingredients) will be lurking in your Trader Joe's Korean seaweed salad.

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Recipe: Cod in Yuja Butter sauce

Someone I know dislikes fish that tastes or smells like fish. She will eat it as long as she doesn't detect it. That means fish and chips with a generous bath of malt vinegar.

Such a person is certainly a challenge for any cook who wants to expand an ichthyophobe's culinary horizons. Whether it's lemon, lime, orange or grapefruit, citrus juice does an excellent job reducing the "fishiness" of fish without killing the flavor.

For an exotic Korean flare to cod, add a splash of 유자 yuja (Asian citron, aka yuzu) juice and the punch of garlic to move this dish toward a Korean palate.

Yes, my yuja obsession is alive and well. 

Cod in Yuja Butter Sauce

Ingredients

2 cod fillets, each 1 inch thick
1 1/2 tablespoons yuja/yuzu juice
1/2 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
2–3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon thyme, dried
pinch of salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon paprika (optional)

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
  2. Arrange the fillets in a 13-inch-by-9-inch baking dish.
  3. Mix the yuja juice, butter, olive oil, garlic, thyme, chives, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Pour the mixture over the fillets.
  4. Sprinkle the marinaded fish with paprika, and place the baking dish in the oven.
  5. Bake for 15–20 minutes, until the flesh is opaque all the way through.
  6. Spoon the juices that collect in the dish over the fish, and serve.

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Review: Trader Joe's Dried Kimchi

I  recently bought a package of Trader Joe's Dried Kimchi, which is 0.7 ounces of dehydrated 배추 김치 baechu kimchi that retails for $2.99.

But is that centuries-old red chili-and-cabbage spicy-sour staple of the Korean dining table being marketed by this Western U.S. grocery chain as 반찬 banchan — a side dish that accompanies the meal — or as seasoning, a condiment or snack?

That explains why I had a hard time finding it at first in the north San Francisco Bay–area store I visited in early March. It reportedly was advertised as a seasoning or a condiment, so I pored over the spice section for several minutes before giving up to complete my shopping list. Then I happened upon it in the snack aisle, sharing space with the potato, kale and pita chips. So, this is supposed to be a snack?

I wonder if this product is the result of Kim Soon-ja's labor? Back in 2009, the Los Angeles Times interviewed this owner of Han Sung Food, based in Bucheon near Seoul, about her idea of developing baechu kimchi without a pungent smell. She believed that freeze-drying it would encourage non-Koreans to appreciate kimchi.


Five years later, we find a dried kimchi as Trader Joe's latest packaged Korean food preparation. The chain has offered Korean staples such as 갈비 kalbi (grilled beef ribs), 불고기 bulgogi (marinaded sauteed beef), roasted seaweed snacks, 김치복음밥 kimchi fried rice and 비빔밥 bibimbap for some time. The company just recently started selling traditional baechu kimchi in the refrigerator section.

But the crispy kimchi is not the same as the chilly kimchi. The dried product has all the basic ingredients of regular baechu kimchi: cabbage, red chili, garlic, ginger, salt, onion and radish. Yet it is very "fish-forward" — to hook a wine country term — from both shrimp paste and anchovy in the paste. Usually, paste for baechu kimchi contains one or the other.


The nutrition label says 0.7 ounces of dried kimchi is enough for four people. That's basically one or two pinches of dried kimchi per person — ludicrous. That's the kind of serving size I'd expect from a seasoning or condiment, not a snack.

The conversation about whether this product is a snack, dish ingredient or topping started in Koreafornian Cooking's social media circles. One of the Facebook feeds I follow had sent out a brief blip on the product launch, so I sent out a quick comment via Facebook and Twitter:
Demi Dang, one of my Twitter followers, pounced on it pretty quickly:
But I wasn't ready to make any kind of comment beyond letting people know of its existence.
A few days later, Demi got back to me with her opinion on the dried kimchi:

I wouldn't call it "bland," but I would say that the flavors are not well-balanced. To me, the dried kimchi was very fishy and salty with just a dash of heat and spice. That's what you'll get from a double dose of shrimp paste and anchovy and a double dose of salt from regular salt and the aforementioned shrimp paste.

My recommendation is to treat this product as a condiment:


  1. Open the bag, let as much air out of it as possible then reseal the bag.
  2. Crush the dried kimchi as much as possible with a rolling pin.
  3. Sprinkle it on pizza as a substitute for crushed red pepper flakes that are common fare in Italian restaurants.

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Korean Independence Movement Day dogged protest at an Oakland, Calif., grocery store

Oakland's Koreatown/Northgate neighborhood, nicknamed KoNo, and its 40-year-old Koreana Plaza grocery were the curiously chosen stage for an anti–dog meat protest Friday, March 1. It was organized by In Defense of Animals, an animal-rights group based in nearby Marin County and behind past protests, usually in front of South Korean diplomatic stations across the U.S. and world.

The target for the group's protest are public policy and consumer trends in Korea, not in Oakland.

"This Independence Movement Day we are asking Korean Americans to rise against the brutal dog meat trade," the event post on In Defense of Animals' Facebook page said. "There is no excuse for dog abuse!"

In Defense of Animals protestors and their canine co-horts stand in front of Koreana Plaza on March 1. Notice the lily-white protestors in front of the store.  (Tammy Quackenbush photo)

Korean Independence Movement Day is also called the March 1 Movement Day, or 삼일절 Sam-il Jeol in Korean. Sam-il Jeol celebrates the efforts of Korea's revolutionary patriots who publicly signed and then declared their independence from Japanese colonial rule on March 1, 1919.

Sam-il Jeol is not only Korea's equivalent to the U.S. independence declaration of early July 1776 but also Korea's analog to the "Boston Massacre" of American protesters by British soldiers in March 1770.

More than 7,000 Koreans were killed by Japanese occupation forces in protests and riots that popped up all over the country after Korean Declaration of Independence was published. Like the tragedy in Boston sparked the American revolution five years later, Sam-il Jeol was the beginning of active Korean resistance to the Japanese occupation of the Korean peninsula.

Thousands of miles east and nearly a century later, March 1, 2013 was an unseasonably warm day in Oakland, Calif., home to the only official Koreatown in Northern California. It was a beautiful day to enjoy the outdoors, walking dogs and getting a little sunshine on your skin.

This unassuming Korean grocery store in Oakland's Koreatown neighborhood became the scene of an Korean Independence Day protest on March 1, 2013, calling for the complete criminalization of dog meat in South Korea. (Tammy Quackenbush photo)

The Oakland protest started shortly before noon and wrapped up promptly at 1 p.m. The protest included a dog parade that began in front of Koreana Plaza at about 11:45 a.m. They walked about a half-mile through Koreatown to William Street then back up to 24th Street, returning to Koreana Plaza.

When I showed up at Koreana around noon, there seemed to be more reporters with still and video cameras than protesters with dogs standing or laying by their sides. The demonstrators were passing out tracts advertising In Defense of Animals' South Korean Dog and Cat Campaign.

This show of dissent in front of Koreana Plaza was truly a WTF moment for me. Why stage and anti–dog meat protest in front of a Korean grocery store that has nothing to do with the marketing of dog meat in Korea? Koreana doesn't sell it, and the owners have never publicly spoken on the issue.

I do understand nexus for such protests in front of consulates. However, staging this in front of a Korean-American grocery store smacks of crass publicity. Is this supposed to encourage the goodwill of the Bay Area's Korean-Americans by co-opting a day Koreans worldwide celebrate the courage of their ancestors in the face of Japanese occupation?

I'm also disturbed by the visuals of well-off white folks parading along Oakland's streets on a Friday afternoon, lecturing Korean and African-Americans (Oakland is a predominately African-American city) about their own food choices or the food choices of people over 5000 miles away.

My piece of advise for groups like this. If you live outside of Korea and you want to help keep Korea's dogs and cats off the dinner table, limit your protests to Korean embassies, consulates and other official Korean government agencies. Leave the grocery store street theater and parades for the Korean animal rights protestors in Korea itself.

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Recipe: Yuja Granola

Liam Neeson once said, "I'm not the kind of actor who would know what my character had for breakfast last Tuesday."


But I can tell you what my husband had for breakfast last Tuesday and every morning from then until now: granola. His morning routine includes a bowl of granola, usually smothered in raisins and spoon-sliced banana and moistened with lactose-free dairy or almond milk. One of our cats (you can meet our little beggar, named Kisa here) persistently paws at him for the treat of getting to lick up the remnants.



This Koreafornian Breakfast Club recipe is inspired by Sweet Salty Spicy's Marmalade Three Nut Granola. Instead of orange or multicitrus marmalade, as in that preparation, I used the bottled mix for the popular hot beverage 유자차 yujacha, which is basically marmalade made from Asian citron (yuja in Korean and yuzu in Japanese) and honey.

This adaptation also was inspired by the relatively high cost of granola on the breakfast menu, compared with two eggs, a generous pile of hash browns and a couple of slices of beef bacon and toast.

The original recipe calls for chopping the walnuts and pecans, presumably with a good knife. To speed the process, I roughly crushed the walnuts and pecans into small-ish bits with my hands.

Yuja Granola

Ingredients

2 cups Bob's Red Mill gluten-free whole-grain rolled oats
1/2 cup Erewhon crispy brown rice cereal (gluten-free)
1/2 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped*
1/2 cup almonds, sliced
1/2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped*
1 cup 유자차 yujacha (Asian citron marmalade for a hot beverage)
1 tablespoon coconut oil, melted
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon powder

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. In a big bowl, mix oats, rice cereal, walnuts, almonds and pecans.
  3. In a small bowl, whisk yujacha, salt, cinnamon and melted coconut oil.
  4. Pour on dry ingredients and mix with a wooden spoon until well coated.
  5. Spread on baking sheet and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring after 10.
  6. Let cool on baking sheet. (It will harden while it cools).
  7. Transfer to an air-tight container.

Linked Within

Related Posts with Thumbnails